Modifications passend für chari....

Thermometer, Grillwerkzeuge und andere Hilfsmittel

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Andreas
Moppedgriller
Moppedgriller
Beiträge: 12139
Registriert: 23.06.2006, 18:48
Wohnort: Direkt beim Grill am Ende des Universums (frei nach Douglas Adams)

hab grad beim stöbern auf
http://www.homebbq.com/default.asp
eine PDF entdeckt, in der wie ich meine sehr sinnvolle Mods an einem chari-style smoker gemacht wurden, sogar ein baffle kommt zum einsatz.
hier der link:
http://www.homebbq.com/library/SmokerModifications.pdf (ca 1,5mb)

@prakti
schau dir das mal an, denke sind schon interessante ideen dabei :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Signatur: Aus Schaden wird man klug
Gast

A.n.d.e.r.l hat geschrieben:hab grad beim stöbern auf
http://www.homebbq.com/default.asp
eine PDF entdeckt, in der wie ich meine sehr sinnvolle Mods an einem chari-style smoker gemacht wurden, sogar ein baffle kommt zum einsatz.
hier der link:
http://www.homebbq.com/library/SmokerModifications.pdf (ca 1,5mb)

@prakti
schau dir das mal an, denke sind schon interessante ideen dabei :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Wirklich ein paar nette Ideen dabei =D>
Gast

Shice,

mein Firmenrechner läßt mich die PDF-Datei nicht öffnen. kannm ir einer den text mailen??
Benutzeravatar
Andreas
Moppedgriller
Moppedgriller
Beiträge: 12139
Registriert: 23.06.2006, 18:48
Wohnort: Direkt beim Grill am Ende des Universums (frei nach Douglas Adams)

Grimwald hat geschrieben:Shice,

mein Firmenrechner läßt mich die PDF-Datei nicht öffnen. kannm ir einer den text mailen??
hier schon mal der text, bilder folgen nach

I bought my Hondo over ten years ago and really
struggled to get good ‘cue. I researched and researched
and bought book after
book but still struggled.
I was ready to spend big
bucks to purchase a
fancy rig – or even get
one custom made – I
was that frustrated. But
before I did. I used my
research to make the
following modifications
and my problems
disappeared. Then I
tried a fire-building
technique in addition to
the modifications and was finally able to maintain an
absolutely steady 220 degrees for 6 to 10 hours with ease.
I was thrilled!
Nearly all the “backyard” offset smokers (typically those
that sell for under $750) need these modifications. The
only exception that I am aware of is the new model Bar-BChef
sold by Barbeques Galore.
These modifications are inexpensive and easy yet they
work wonders. Try them and see if they don’t work for
you, too.
_ ____ ____
Go to your local home improvement or building supply
store and get the following:
_ One roll of aluminum flashing for the chimney.
_ One piece of unpainted, non-galvanized 22 to 16
gauge light steel for the baffle.
_ Pipe plug or metal cap to fill the thermometer hole.
_ If you don’t have one, you will need either a 3/4"
drill bit or a 3/4" hole cutter.
___ ___ ______ _______ __ __ ____ _____________ _ __ ______
_ _ _____ ____ ______ ___ __ !
This is critical. You want to measure the cooking temperature at the grill level, not at the top of
the cooking chamber. Heat rises, and the temperature reading with the temperature gauge in
its original position will give you a reading up to 80 degrees higher than the temp at which you
are actually cooking.
1. Remove the existing temperature
gauge. The hole is 3/4" in diameter. Fill
the hole with a pipe plug or a metal cap.
2. With an electric drill and 3/4" drill bit or
3/4" hole cutter, drill or cut a new hole a
little to the side of the handle (if your
firebox is mounted on the left side – if
your firebox is mounted on the right
side, you want to put the new hole to the
left of the handle) and remount the
temperature gauge in the new hole.
"_ _# Another option is to purchase a digital, remote temperature gauge. This
eliminates the need for drilling a new hole. Get a small block of hardwood and
drill a hole all the way through. Insert the probe of the remote temperature
gauge through the hole so that 1" to 1½ “ of the end of the probe is exposed.
You can then place the probe anywhere in the cooking chamber and obtain a
very accurate reading.
$_ ___ __ _____ ____%_____ _______ _ __ ____ _________
___ _
This modification will improve heat retention, helps to even out heat distribution and promotes
proper heat conduction over the meat.
1. Unroll the aluminum flashing and cut a piece
off about a foot to a foot and half in length.
2. Roll the cut piece of flashing into a cylinder
about ½” less in diameter than the chimney.
3. Stick the cylinder up inside the chimney from
the bottom leaving enough of the flashing
exposed so the chimney is about an inch or so
above the cooking grate.
4. Let the flashing unroll and it will unroll to the
diameter of the chimney.
$____ ____ ____%______%_ _ ____ ______%_&_____ _________
___ %__
This modification serves two purposes. First, it directs heat downward below the grill for much
improved heat circulation, which together with the chimney modification dramatically evens out
the temperature in the cooking chamber. Second, it acts as a heat shield between the firebox
and the meat to eliminate radiant heat so that you are cooking by heat convection only. This
prevents the meat from burning before it is done.
1. Cut a piece of the steel wide enough to
cover the opening between the fire box
and the cooking chamber at its widest
point (side-to-side). Make this piece of
steel 12" to 16" in length (better to be
slightly long than slightly short).
2. Line the piece of steel up with the upper
bolts that hold the firebox to the cooking
chamber and mark the spots. Drill holes
to line up with the existing bolts.
3. At a height just below the cooking grate, bend the piece of steel into an “L” shape, but
the angle should be less than 90 degrees. You want the end which extends into the
cooking chamber to angle slightly downward toward the bottom of the cooking chamber.
You want at least 6" of the steel baffle extending into the cooking chamber (more is
better than less).
4. Mount the piece of steel using the existing bolts and nuts, making sure the bottom half
of the “L” extends into the cooking chamber below the cooking grate.
__________
__________
_____ __ ___
__ ____
For the longest, steadiest burn times I recommend you get
the best quality hardwood lump charcoal you can find.
Briquettes will work, however they produce so much ash that
the fire chokes itself out within about 4 hours. High quality
hardwood lump charcoal produces very little ash.
If you don’t use a charcoal basket, you
need to find a way to keep the charcoal
away from the air intake. Here is a
good way _
:Fill the firebox with charcoal all the way
to the lip of the opening between the
firebox and the cooking chamber then
hollow out every so slightly -- about an
inch or so -- just enough to make the
pile slightly concave -- a small area in
the middle by pushing the charcoal up
around the sides a little.
Fill a Weber chimney with charcoal and light it. When it is going real good (all coals glowing)
then pour it all on top of the charcoal in the firebox, keeping it centered as much as possible.
Close the lids but leave all the vents (air intake and chimney) wide open. When the temp
reaches 275 - 300 degrees, begin closing the air intake. Close the air intake half way then
check the temp in 15 minutes. If it is too high, close the vent half way again and check in 15
minutes. If still too high, close the air intake all the way. Check again in 15 minutes. If the
temp is still too high and ALL VISIBLE SMOKE DISAPPEARS, begin closing the chimney -- you
guessed it -- half way. Check again in 15 minutes, etc. At some point the temp will stabilize --
check the vents and remember where they were as that will be your starting point next time.
The fire will slowly burn down through the pile of charcoal providing a nice, long, steady burn.
For a review of the lump charcoals available in your area go to:
http://www.nakedwhiz.com/lumpindexpage.htm?bag
This site reviews most all available hardwood lump charcoals. The higher the quality charcoal
the longer your burn time.
A “welded” charcoal basket
A “no-weld” charcoal basket
It takes some time to learn the individual quirks of
your smoker, but if you work with the technique
and use the highest quality lump charcoal you will
easily get 6-8-10 hours of steady 210-220
degrees. This really does work --- I have heard
back from hundreds of people who have followed
these instructions and all report results just like
mine.
I don't recommend that you use wood as your
primary fuel. The backyard sized off-sets have a
cooking chamber that is just too small and it is
very very easy to over-smoke the meat making it
taste very bitter and, well, gross. I have been
trying for years to figure out why this is and I
believe (and others tend to agree) that it is because in order to get the wood to the proper temp
to burn off the foul-tasting impurities you will not be able to maintain the low temp required for
proper barbequing (remember, low and slow) -- the cooking chamber just gets way to hot.
A good brand of lump charcoal will give you a mildly pleasant smoke flavor but if you want it a
little stronger, put a few wood chunks around the
perimeter of the firebox and let them smolder or wrap
them in heavy duty foil and poke a bunch of holes in the
top and lay them on top of the charcoal). If you do this, it
is a good idea to gently lay a piece of heavy duty foil over
the meat (don’t “tent” it and don’t wrap the meat – just
gently lay the foil on top of the meat) to prevent creosote
from depositing on the meat surface. You only need to do
this once or twice during the cooking process --
remember, it is very easy to over-smoke in these smaller
cookers. I seldom use the wood chunks and I have been
told by many many people that my 'que is the best they've
ever had. Like I said, a good quality lump charcoal should
be all you need to turn out "the best 'que they've ever
had."
Dan
screenwriter2@earthlink.net



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ich hoffe geholfen zu haben :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Signatur: Aus Schaden wird man klug
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